What if Bachmann Freight Station was a Craftsman kit?

 

This Bachmann kit has been in their catalog since forever

The weekend was another occasion to hone my modelling skills on some structure deemed irrelevant by most serious hobbyists: the venerable Bachmann Plasticville Freight Station. Yes, one of these childish snap-together toys from the 1950s.

Deconstruction is always a delicate process

I wasn’t sure it would be a good starting point for anything, but after seeing a B&O freight shed picture found on the internet and forgotten as soon as the project was completed. Such small structures located on the mainline or nearby were quite common and handled often LCL freight. Convinced the Bachmann kit proportions were alright; I soldiered on to transform in it something more “serious”.

 

Broken into its basic components

As always, taking apart the poorly glued kit was half the challenge of this build. I had to decide what would be kept and what would be changed. The clumsy window and side door had to go and I once again had to try a few Tichy parts until I found ones that fitted both the bill and the holes in the walls. The large sliding doors weren’t bad and quite close to real ones, so they would be kept. Even the clumsy “wooden” deck in front of the station was to be kept. Recent experiments with Arlee Station proved me it was just a matter of cladding them with individual wooden plank to change their look.

 

Adding wood grain is the single most important step with plastic kits

As with all my other recent builds, the plastic wall were distressed with a razor saw to simulate wood grain. This is truly the small and easy technique that really change the game. I felt the planks covering the lower portion of the walls were out of scale. They were about 18 scale inches wide! So using a flat screwdriver, I visually split them in two by scribing an additional line in the middle of each plank.

 

The kit qualities are starting to reveal themselves

The side wall openings were also extensively reworked. The window needed some additional styrene to fit gaps on each side, but the door required extensive surgery. It had to be made higher but narrower. Some battens were added and I carved out the weird flat board on top of the door that used to have an “office” sticker sign. The oversized Bachmann gooseneck light was replaced with a Tichy one mounted on a piece of phosphore bronze. I also replaced the caricatural handles on the large sliding doors with U-shaped pieces of wire.

Never forget to add soffite... little details matter in architecture

The roof underside was decorated with thin styrene fake soffit that was glued in place. The roof fascia were alright and only needed some texturing. The roof sign holes were plugged with bits of styrene and sanded down flush with the roof.

 

Painting almost done on the main structure

As with all my American structures, it was painted buff with brown trims. Some weathering was applied. At first the wall lower parts were painted buff, but I felt it didn’t make sense. Railroads would have painted parts that gets a lot of abuse and near the ground with the darker paint to hide defects. Looking at the B&O prototype picture, it was clear they used brown for everything under the platform. So, I came back and changed it.

The roof was covered with tar paper on the original tooling and I thought it would be nice to use the same material. It was my first time modelling tar paper, so I followed a few YouTube tutorials, specifically one by Jason Jensen. I used construction paper, primed it with grey paint and distressed the strips with a 220 grit sandpaper. The technique is quite easy, but I admit the result was a little bit overboard for a well-maintained structure. Also, I should have used a much darker grey as this looks far too light. Anyway, I learned a new technique and it is what matters. The paper strips were glued directly on the roof using canopy glue. I wonder if in the future, double-faced tape could be applied to the back of the paper strips. I see a lot of possibilities for the future feed mill I need to build on Mink Subdivision.

 

My first attempt at tarpaper roofing

Finally, I decided to clad the entire original platform with planks made of styrene strips. I had to fill some gaps in the Bachmann parts and to remove about 0.5mm at the bottom to take into account the thickness of the new planking. I didn’t want my platform to sit higher than the doors.

 

Crucial steps are often simple but repetitive

I knew it would be a long process, but texturing, cutting and gluing the planking took forever. A few hours were spent on that task. In fact, it probably took half the time required to convert the building. It was not hard work, just incredibly time consuming. However, the result is excellent and worth the time invested.

 

The rebuilt kit

At the end of the day, I’m glad to have completed this project. I always wondered if the Bachmann kit could be turned into something more realistic and layout friendly. The answer is yes. The design of the kit makes it perfect to set a pickup truck or any vehicle by it. Someone could open the sliding doors opened and model an interior by adding a floor and lots of crates, sacks or barrels inside. Another advantage of this kit is his size. The footprint can fit many different locations without overpowering the scene.

 

Ready for a future layout...

I still have a few kits that needs improvement. The last two I will document here are the Walthers speeder shed and another old classic 1958 Revell kit. Stay tuned!

Restoring Atlas/Life-Like/Revell Shanties

I don't know how long this kitbashing spree will last but since I'm in the groove, let's revist a few more structures before I go back to the Murray Bay and Monk Subdivision.

A classic old Life-Like kit that was given to our club

Trackside shanties were a staple of model railroading in the steam and transition era. Over the years, many manufacturers offered their own vision of what was a shanty. While following the same general appearances, most varied greatly in dimensions. For instance, the well-known Atlas shanty is probably among the larger while the Revell one is diminutive. Life-Like offered several ones that were falling in the middle.

The quality of these models varied greatly. Personally, I was never fond of Atlas weird side window and the open door. As for the Life-Like offering, they were in general quite nice. The Revell one was kind of interesting but could be improved in the detail department.

Building upon my experience with Arlee station, I decided to apply the same improvements to these littles shanties that were rotting in our club closet. Could they be made to look good? Could their details be standardized to reduce the difference between them and create a sense of family? Surely it could!

As with all the cheap kits in our collection, these ones were poorly painted, poorly assembled and messed up by big blobs of glue. The Revell shanty was missing its door and windows while the Life-Like one had lost its smokestack. They all took a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner with some Castrol Super Clean. Then, they were ready to be dismantled and all the glue removed.

Once again, I reached my box of Tichy windows and started to look for suitable ones. After looking at prototype pictures, I became convinced that 2/2 sash windows were the best fit for most cases. I removed some mullions from 4/4 windows to get the right results.

The Life-Like windows were ludicrously small for HO

The Life-Like shanty also got a new door and windows. The original windows were far too small to look realistic and the details on the door made it looks weird and unrealistic. I decided to use the same windows than the Revell shanty and a similar door too. Using plastic sprues, I crafted a new smokestack and added a wooden plinth and a stair. I also sanded off the cheap wooden shingle texture on the roof. I will add new tar paper made of construction paper later on.

A fully refurbished Life-Like shanty

The Revell shanty got some basic modifications including a scratchbuilt door, new fascias and the replacement of the clunky shelf brackets with smaller ones. Wooden texture was added to the walls and the chimney was hollowed out with a drill to make it more realistic. Fortunately, the Tichy windows were almost a perfect fit. The structure was raised on a wooden foundation and a stair made of a big lumber added in front of the door.

 

Almost every detail was touched up on the Revell shanty

The Atlas shanty was never my favourite, thus it required more thoughtful interventions. The side windows was reduced in width to accommodate a Tichy 6/6 sash window. A piece of Evergreen metal siding had the same profile than the board and batten siding of the kit. A new door was also added in the same pattern than the other shanties. Fascias were added and the roof tarpaper texture sanded off. Once completed, the kit acquired a new identity that is better looking and which could easily be a standard structure on a model railway.

A better proportioned window completely changes the Atlas shanty

The kits were primed and got a dark wash to bring the texture out. It was followed by a coat of buff paint. Hairspray was applied to the windows, doors and trims, covered with light brown acrylic paint and chipped away with a stiff brush and water. A dark wash and some white drybrushing was added later to improve the weathered look.

 

Different size yet similar in details.

These shanties took about a day of work and probably less if I wasn’t fighting against kits that had been poorly assembled. The modifications didn’t cost that much and provided me with structures that have a better level of details while staying quite affordable and attractive. They would be at home anywhere trackside!

Revell shanty

Life-Like shanty

Atlas shanty

Restoring the old AHM/Tyco/Life-Like Arlee Station

My exploration of the Merkiomen Branch led me to revisit and reconsider the many plastic kits stored at our club layout. They are, in general, classic kits that have been offered on the market decades. They are ubiquitous to North American railroading. But as with anything widespread and ubiquitous, most of them are generally shunned upon since they rarely depict a specific prototype or look unrealistic. But is it really the case?

Not that we tried to collect these kits. Over the years, people started to give us their old stuff or structures purchased from estates at flea markets. They filled a gap many years ago but ended up taking space. A few were scavenged for detail parts, others suffered paint experiments that rarely turned out well. Most suffered poor construction due to original builders using the wrong glue or being not careful that things aligned. A classic was that windows were glued in inverted positions. In all honesty, most of these kits should end up in the garbage bin but I decided to try my luck and restore them since they were generally honest representation of railroad structures. In some way, this is the next chapter to my Atlas station kitbash I did early this year.

Among the many kits were shanties, both Atlas, Revell and Life-Like, an IHC water tower, a Walthers speeder shed and some other Walthers structures such as an interlocking tower and a crossing gate shanty. However, the first one that caught my eye was the Tyco Arlee Station or more exactly, it’s later Life-Like incarnation. I recall a childhood friend who loved trains had that very station on his layout, so I have a connexion with it. While a little bit clumsy, the building had an irresistible charm. My research about American rural stations quickly shown me this kit was an excellent stand-in for many structures found all around the place, so why not try to restore it.

RMC Arlee Station article (source: HO Scale Trains Resource)

Interestingly enough, that kit had its origin, like many products of the era, from a scratchbuilt structure published in the October 1967 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. The original structure was designed by Rob Corriston to represent a typical American rural station. He drew inspiration from several prototypes, trying to capture the essence of a standard building. While the plastic kit derived its general dimensions from Mr. Corriston’s model, let’s just say that many details were lost in translation when Pola tooled it in the early 1970s in West Germany!

Let's be honest, this is a sad little kit...

Dismantling the kit wasn’t an easy task since everything was poorly glued and the plastic had melted in some places. Looking at the details, it was clear the windows looked goofy. The tooling had these depressed areas where the windows should be glued, but the dimensions were completely wrong. The doors were also a little bit caricatural, so I thought to myself “let’s replace the openings”. 

Breaking down the kit into its original components

Sifting through my stash of Tichy windows and doors, I tried several models until something would fit into the holes perfectly. To help me select them, I was also getting inspired by PRR and Reading stations. I kept the baggage doors, but installed them in recess with new trims.

 

Fitting windows and doors is the fun part!

After the kit was dismantled, cleaned and repaired, it was time to rebuild it. However, I thought some little modifications could make the kit unique and closer to prototypes I had seen. Thus, I enlarged the building by added 40mm. Fortunately, Evergreen cladding was almost a perfect fit for the existing pattern on walls. 40mm was the distance between roof brackets, so I decided to keep that rhythm.

The enlarged building

The walls were reassembled, new wainscotting was scribed on styrene in places where it was missing and I distressed all the surfaces with a razor saw. I also raised the building on a wooden plinth. A new roof was installed with a Tichy brick chimney instead of the unrealistic stone one provided with the kit. The gable wooden decorations were resculpted and textured to improve their appearance.

Finally, I replaced all the original roof brackets with new ones patterned after the same model. The reason was simple. I suspect that when Life-Like inherited the tooling, it was showing its age or was poorly fit. It meant that both parts of the mold were so misaligned that the parts had huge seamlines that couldn’t be removed without altering completing the parts. Redoing them was easier and faster, making it possible to add more texture and details to them.

 

The gable decorations were trimmed and scribed

For painting, I settled on a buff wall and brown trims scheme which was common during the late steam era in the USA. Such colors could be found all around the country, on the PRR, Reading, B&M, B&O, UP, D&RGW and ATSF with some variation. This is an interesting distinction since Canadian railway structures of the same era used red and cream paint instead.

 

Primer and washes before final painting

Some subtle weathering was applied to give more realism to the structure. I haven’t yet chosen a type of roofing nor added the window glazing. I also need to kitbash the wooden baggage platforms. However, I’m quite happy with the result. It’s both realistic and good looking. It would be at home on a UP or SP layout, or even a PRR or Reading one. It would be hard to believe it is that old plastic kit that Walthers still sell to this day. This little experiment convinced me to apply the same treat to other classic plastic kits. Who knows, they could find their way on some future layout or diorama.

Almost done!

Recreating Rob Mountenay’s Merkiomen Valley Branch – Part 3

The pleasure of recreating Rob’s layout is largely derived from reverse engineering is creative decision through the lenses of my own art of model railroading. Such a blatant case is the coal dealer shed. This little structure, on the edge of the layout, if a very common prototype found across North America. It isn’t special in any way, shape or form, hence making it more attractive to me.

After a lot of online research, I was able to discover the kit used on the Merkiomen Valley Branch was none other than an old Mil-Scale craftsman kit. It wasn’t a fancy one, but rather something quite basic as would be expected from a product designed in the 1970s. I was able to locate the original drawings on WorthPoint and to guesstimate the dimensions out of pictures.

Big enough to fit a 40ft hopper

From what I gather, the building was big enough to shelter an entire 40ft long coal hopper, making it quite compact. Looking at the kit pictures and comparing it to real prototype pictures of coal trestles, I became convinced it was kind of wrong. The kit didn’t provide any ties for the rails and they were glued directly on diminutive stringers. To my architect eyes, it didn’t make any sense and I decided to redesign it in a more realistic way. To accomplish this goal, I had to make the shed slightly higher to accommodate the extra lumber.

Old white paint still visible

Soon, I decided to make my own lumber from a weathered spruce picket from my garden and some half-painted scraps of pine. My idea was to use reclaimed wood to obtain a much more realistic texture before final weathering. Everything from posts to planks was cut on my table saw, textured with 60 grit sandpaper and sanded with 180 grit paper to remove the fuzzy fibres. I made sure to keep some old paint and weathering here and there. The wood was then stained with a mix of India ink and alcohol. I hadn’t used that recipe for a long time, preferring oil paint washes and AK products, but honestly, I can see me reusing India ink more often in the near future.

Reclaimed wood is varied in appearance

To build the structure, I created a cardboard template that would ensure the general dimensions would be right whatever the lumber discrepancies. Each frame took about 20 minutes to build.

 

A template really takes away any risk of errors

Planks were then glued on to create partition walls between each coal bin. I then proceeded to create the trestle deck. Once again, using a template. A pair of stringers were glued on evenly spaced long ties to form the holes in the deck where coal would pour.  Smaller ties were added to support rails and planks were installed to create the gangways for crews. The model was ready for assembly.

 

Poor quality lumber is used at the gangway ends

At this point, the deck was inserted between the 5 frames, creating a 3D structure. Then I cemented the distressed and pre-weathered styrene novelty siding on the long side. At that point, I knew the structure was both squared and braced.

Waking sure everything aligns

Other styrene sides were added until the basic structure was done. Pieces of wood were glued inside to simulate gangway railings. I kept the last bay without any railing thinking I could later on install an access ladder there. I also added horizontal beams on each side walls to complete the structure and a wooden buffer was added to stop cars.

Inside view before adding end buffers

Finally, I used my worst pieces of lumber to add planking at the bottom of the long back walls. These planks would be ultimately half buried in the scenery where they would have started to rot away slowly due to humidity build up.

 

Small yet effective!

As completed, I really like the way it turned out. The reclaimed wood really added a touch of realism to the visible structure. It has that color and quality of old barn wood. As for the dimensions, I quite like them. It’s both imposing yet small enough to not overshadow the entire scene.

 

Ready to pick up some coal!

I will probably glue the structure to a plywood base, add texture, ground, vegetation and coal before setting it in place permanently on the layout. The roof will be added only when most of interior details will be done. I've yet to decide if the structure will be painted white, grey or red, like Rob's model.

Recreating Rob Mountenay’s Merkiomen Valley Branch – The Speeder Shed

By “recreating”, I really mean it. It’s an interpretation from available pictures of Rob’s work but using my own creativity and as much scratchbuild techniques to make it a truly personal work of art.

Rob's original speeder shed (credit: Rob Mountenay / JOMRD)

The first thing I recreated was the speeder shed located by Moyer depot. Rob used a very typical specific prototype that he probably scratchbuilt or built from a kit. While it would be nice to do so, I happened to have an unassembled Walthers kit on hand. As you know, I’m not a fan of Walthers structures ubiquitousness. They stand out too much for my taste, however, if I had to build a speeder shed, it would hardly be different than a Walthers kit, so I decided to customize it a little bit.

 

Adding texture is easy and highly effective

First, I added a distressed wooden pattern on the plastic using coarse sandpaper and a razor saw blade. I felt it would give a more organic texture to an industrial product. The doors received the same treatment, but I also took care to scribe the lines between each wooden components making the doors. It was to emphasize it’s an assemblage and not a single piece moulding.

 

Adding nails improves the monolithic aspect of plastic parts

Second, the wooden platform also got the same distressing treatment, and nails were also added with the help of a metal point. I also used the razor saw to add deeper lines between the planks on the side. Once again, a neat trick to reduce the look a plastic monolithic part.

Crude original windows replaced with custom ones

 

Texture is added to the new windows

Another thing that bothered me were the windows and trims. They looked both minimalistic and unrealistic, so I decided to replace them with customized Tichy windows. The door also got new trims, and all these plastic components were distressed. I felt this little modification made the entire building look more authentic and gave it personality.

 

The concrete foundation is textured too

Finally, I used a stiff brush and solvent cement to give a more realistic concrete look to the concrete foundation. The trick is to dabble the melted surface with the brush until it creates a bumpy surface. Don’t be afraid of overdoing it because you can always soften the surface later on with more solvent or with a light sanding. This technique works also well for imitating steel surfaces, particularly the heavily rusted ones.

 

Finished model ready for painting

Painting shouldn’t be too complicated, and I may elect, later on, to add paper shingles on the plastic roof if weathering fails to capture a realistic look. All in all, these little modifications took less than an afternoon and add a great impact. It is a great way, while building brand new kits, to give them more depth and realism without embarking on a full kitbashing adventure.