Monk Subdivision - Reinstalling the Roadbed

After rebuilding the bridge and adjusting it a bit, it was time to finally reinstall the roadbed aka the splines. I had carefully cut them in sections for storage a year ago to make it easier to rebuild the layout. Unfortunately, I recalled I had buil them according to a different track geometry. 2 years ago, I had in mind to have the station in the foreground and the passing track near the backdrop. However, plans have reverted back to having the depot facing people in the aisle.

A mockup always help to raise your spirit!

It shouldn't take too much work to adapt the splines since the curve radii are corrects. However, I still had to build from scratch the pesky S-curve entering the staging after Lake Therrien. This is probably the most tricky area of the layout. Since I want to run passenger cars and large steamers, I have no choice but make sure the straight transition is over 13 inches and that my curves all have a generous easement.

The track leaving the staging is a 28" radius. I wish I could use a large one, but there is a limit to what can be achieved with the staging. With this tight geometry, not mistakes can be made. So, instead of build the spline right on the layout with a part inserted into the wall and no way to really figure out the radius, I decided to draw a perfect template on a sheet on plywood, drive locating nails at regular intervals and use that as a tool to build the MDF spline. When done, I installed it temporarily and checked the alignment using Kato Unitrack curved tracks. Mind you, I was less than 1/4" out of alignment in the staging room, meaning it was well within building tolerances.

Gluing some cork before installation

Before installing the spline, I glued some cork at the end to ensure I could align the roadbed with the fiberboard in the staging. Installing the spline was a child's play, using some cardboard template to make sure the alignment was perfect.

Installed and ready to glue

All in all, this step proved to be much easier than anticipated, which was a great relief. But it also made me think about the future of the layout, my level of energy and my desire to run trains in a smooth and simpler fashion.

Reverting back to a saner and simpler staging concept

At the end of the day, my philosophy has been rehashed and tested again and again in this blog. Vince Valley just cemented my hatred of complicated wiring, how this stuff can take all the joy from the room. It also thought me the chances I will operated complicated scheduled trains are very scarce. For that reason, I removed the complicated crossover that made it possible to reverse trains. Sure, it was excellent on paper, but execution was complicated, made DCC and DC use incompatible and was a source of derailment even in the best conditions. I decided to reduce the number of available tracks, get rid of the troublesome curved turnout and have a nice and simple staging yard. Sure, trains won't be reverse, but I also have enough loco and rolling stock to stage enough trains in both directions to be happy. Wiring will be simpler and if I ever decided to do some automation, things will be far more user friendly.

Monk Subdivision - Bridge Collapse

While installing the last piece of backdrop this evening, I shut the door off while cutting a piece of MDF in the workshop. I heard the distinct noise of a wood stick falling on the concrete floor. My brain immediately knew what it meant. I may have missed the loud noise made by it due to my ear protectors, but only ONE stick could have produced that highly recognizable noise. It was the lift bridge that collapsed after the retaining stick had fallen due to vibration.

For a few weeks, I wanted to make a stick with anti-slip rubber ends before building a proper stopping mechanism. I failed to implement it for various trivial reason and there, the bridge was down. Given the falling height and the bridge weight, I knew the damage would be substantial.

The lip shattered and took away the spline and abutment with it

The lip exploded, including the bridge abutment and the piece of spline glued to it, shattering wood under the stress of screws. On the hinges side, their wooden support unglued themselves while the 3/4 inch plywood forming the structure splintered like cardboard. The bridge itself was no longer horizontal, but sank down noticeably and the backdrop jammed itself on the rest of the layout. It was a mess.

I must have been quite tired because I calmly assessed the situation and started to dismantle the hinges to relieve some stress. Moving the bridge out of the doorway required quite a lot of strength. It was jammed as if someone had driven it with a sledgehammer.

Plywood was badly damaged at the hinges where the shock was absorbed

Fortunately, the mechanical parts, electrical dowels and hinges were intact albeit laying all over the place. The resin abutment, thought shattered, could be repaired because it broke in three large pieces. No missing shards and the weathering job wasn't affected.

I carefully cleaned the splintered pieces of wood, removing the screws and loose wood fibers. I then reglued everything in place, carefully filling the fissures with carpented glue and making sure everything was square and tight with many clamps. After 30 minutes, almost everything was repaired. Another hour will be required tomorrow to reinstall the hinges supports, the spline and the electrical dowel at the far end.

The abutment broke, but didn't shatter... fortunately

Until I build a safer stopping mechanism, I won't reinstall the lift bridge. I knew it was a liability and I'm lucky the damages weren't fatal.

With that said, the backdrop is almost all in place and sanded down. It will require some putty work after primer, but so far, the result is good. I didn't expect it would be so challenging, but truth to be told, it is! I still need to address a weird corner though. Can't wait to paint the powder blue sky and the Appalachian landscale. It will means that I'm finally ready to reinstall the splines, lay the track and wire them. Something that I've been waiting for more than 5 years.

Monk Subdivision: Circling the Circle

Work on the layout has progressed tremendously over the weekend. Small but crucial tasks made it possible to get the benchwork in place and firmly attached to the stone wall. I now have an almost complete shelf all around the room.

If you have followed the building saga of Monk Subdivision, you know the original benchwork was independent from the stone wall and self supported by a pair of legs and braces. This arrangement had several pitfalls, the more severe being its flimsy nature. It was 16 feet long and wobbling a lot. Another issue was the legs and braces that took a lot of space while providing very little stability. So, this time, steel shelf brackets were mounted on 2x4 attached on the stone wall with concrete screws. I thought it would be a nightmare to drill that wall made of rubble, but it worked very nice and in about 3 hours, all the benchwork was back in place.

 

Finding the real alignment on such an imperfect wall was the big challenge, not the work itself. After some pondering, we decided to install the already assembled benchwork in place, in the right alignment and mounted on temporary legs. Using a long aluminium straightedge, we made sure it was perfectly aligned. 2 x 4s were screwed on the benchwork, then shims were installed to fit the uneven wall. Everything was solidly fixed, painted and brackets installed.

The result is a surprisingly strong and stable shelf. The ergonomics are also much better than the original installation. I may have been set back by a year and a half, but honestly, it pays off. I also decided to make the backdrop 24” high for better photography. Armagh is the main focal point and I prefer a scene that surrounds you.

The next steps will be to close the little 24” long gap in the benchwork, then install the MDF backdrop and paint it. At this point, I will be ready to reinstall the original splines I had carefully cut and stored. Having carefully disassembled the original layout helped to save a lot of rebuilding time. If everything goes well, I could be able to glue the roadbed, install track and do a temporary wiring job in the next few weeks. Without pressure, I would like to be able to run trains around the room by the end of June, which is my main goal with that project.

Benchwork back in place, except the little gap at left

As you have probably observed, I changed my mindset to progress instead of perfection. Good track work, good benchwork, step by step implementation, possibility to go back and improve. I was originally stalled by wanting every steps to be finalized and perfect before moving forward. It doesn’t work. I still don’t know how I will address the staging area turnout issues and crossover, but I know I can still use it as long as 1 track is functional. Others will follow later when and if they are required. Wiring will be minimal then improved according to my empirical needs and not my list of “nice to have”. At the end of the day, a moving train on a loop beats an uncompleted exciting vision. That said, I make sure each steps I do will ensure I can improve and implement more things in the future. In that sense, I'm really glad to have streamlined that projects to a single track mainline with a passing track. It takes out of the window so much hassle, misery and complexity.

As an example, I will start with Peco turnouts with their spring-loaded throw bars. Sure, the holes will be drilled and the frog wire solder at installation. But Tortoise, complex wiring and signals will come later, when the basics stuff is in place and troubleshooted. I guess getting older makes me more impatient to run my trains, yet more pragmatic in what I can achieve.

Monk Subdivision: Wiring the Swing Gate

Wiring isn’t my cup of tea, but I must admit I had to step up my game a little bit over the last few months. At least, enough to barely understand what I’m doing.

One of the challenges on Monk is the lift gate. Not only it must be electrified, but current must be cut off on each side of it to prevent a train running over the gap accidentally. While there are many approaches to do that, I had a few DCC Concepts Legacy Connectors on hands. They are metal alignment dowels with spring load gold plated plungers that ensure electric contact when they met. They use a male-female arrangement. I thought they could be really useful because the alignment property would be desired at the open end of the gate where they can be a 1mm tolerance, enough to cause issues and derailment.

My concept is simple: Each track on both sides of the gate is insulated from the rest of the layout. I selected a minimal length of 2 feet, but on the right side, it’s about 3 feet long. That should be enough to take care of any locomotive running full speed with inertia.

Connectors on the hinge side

I run a flexible bus wire to the lift gate on the hinge side. This bus then split in three feeders. One to the hinge sides, one to the opposite side and one to the bridge track itself. Each of them is soldered to a male Legacy Connector that mates with a female connector located into the fascia or on top of it, depending on the geometry. The lift gate thus acts like a switch.

Connector on the opposite side

When closed down, both approach tracks on each side of the lift gate are alive and trains can run over the bride. If opened up, electric current never reaches these tracks and trains are safe from taking the proverbial plunge to the concrete floor. This is a fail safe and low tech strategy I like.

Connector installed on the opposite side benchwork

As you may have noticed, the bridge track always stays electrified with this design, but it isn’t an issue. Nobody will open the lift gate with a train on it… at least, I hope so!

Scenery will take care of these wires in the future

The DCC Concept Legacy Connectors aren’t probably the first choice for that kind of installation, but they are easy to install and helps with alignment. We shall see if they are able to survive constant handling.

Monk Subdivision: Lazy Signals for Dumb People

I wanted signals on the Monk Subdivision because they always appears on 1960s and 1970s pictures, but the truth is that adding the detectors to get a true railway logic according to Canadian standards is both a costly endeavour and a descent into madness. If you aren’t an electronic wiz, a programming enthusiast or haven’t that level of very specific autistic obsession with such intricate intellectual challenges, let’s just say it’s not for you.

Add to that the Monk Subdivision slice I depict is just one station, so not enough place to really implement full signalling over many blocks. It wouldn’t add that much of a layer of entertainment. Thus, I thought I should just wire the signals to be coupled with turnout positions. Simple, vaguely prototypical, and at least useful when operating trains because you get an obvious visual indication about what’s going on with the siding.

My approach to my dumb signals is to wire them all on a tortoise switch machine. They have two built-in switches, one will control the turnout frog polarity and the other one the signals. And here is the catch. I need to wire up to 4 signals to that single switch. Sounds crazy, but it is in fact relatively simple and very different to how I wired some on my stuff on the late Vince Valley layout (now demolished to provide free building materials to finish Monk.

I've read a little bit about Canadian signals and decided to replicate a few of their aspects that suits my needs the best. My objective are simple, I won't model occupation but route. It means that a diverging turnout or one aligned on the main line will change aspects. Not prototypical, but not completely nonsense either. As long as signals help you understand where you are moving, I'm fine. Anyway, Monk still used some TT & TO with their signals, and it wasn't a full CTC or ABS system. Just some hybrid thing to automate sidings a little bit.

Dumb signals schematics

Let's say a train is travelling from West to East (Staging to Armagh), if the route is aligned on the mainline, the restricted signal 2 will show green on red meaning to go full speed ahead and continue on the mainline... At the turnout, the signal will also show green on red. In the opposite direction, signal 4 will be also green on red. If occupation and direction of travel was taken into account, it wouldn't be necessary the case. Dwarf signal 5 is red since any train in that siding should wait the turnout is properly aligned to proceed.

Let's say we move in the same direction, but the turnout is set on the diverging route to take the siding. The staggered signal 2 show us red on yellow, meaning the main line is not accessible, but the siding is. Since yellow means to slow down the speed since we take the diverging route, we also get, in advance, an indication of things to come and to start reducing speed. Signal 3 is also red on yellow for the same logical reasons. Signal 4 is red on red because a train on the mainline can't move and must stop there.

If you travel from East to West, things are rather simple. Signals 4 and 5 will display green or red depending if the turnout is properly aligned with your respective track. Signal one is the less prototypical, but it serves a purpose of telling you if you are continuing on the mainline at full speed or if you are entering the staging area an must slow down. Occupancy will probably be done through optic sensors and a track diagram with LEDs... or simply a small camera in the staging room with a screen in the layout room.

I won't stress enough my system is dumb and really simple to implement. Better, it animates the signals, giving them an realistic aesthetic while providing useful information for an operator. Most derailments on model railroads are caused by misaligned turnouts. Looking at LEDs on a fascia isn't always practical, intuitive or interesting because it breaks the suspension of disbelief. Having the signals giving you that precious information is both more realistic, but also visually compelling to the point the route ahead is clear to understand at a glance. As long as the signals have a "real" purpose, they are "prototypical" in my eyes. I can understand if purists will be horrified at these shortcuts, but they make it possible to have working signals on a realistic budget and with bulletproof logic to it. It's simple and at the level I can do myself with some wire, a DPDT and my trusty soldering iron.

Also, it must be noted that with a DPDT on each specific signals, it could be possible to give them a different aspect, but that would need some little thinkering.