By “recreating”, I really mean it. It’s an interpretation from available pictures of Rob’s work but using my own creativity and as much scratchbuild techniques to make it a truly personal work of art.
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Rob's original speeder shed (credit: Rob Mountenay / JOMRD) |
The first
thing I recreated was the speeder shed located by Moyer depot. Rob used a very
typical specific prototype that he probably scratchbuilt or built from a kit.
While it would be nice to do so, I happened to have an unassembled Walthers kit
on hand. As you know, I’m not a fan of Walthers structures ubiquitousness. They
stand out too much for my taste, however, if I had to build a speeder shed, it
would hardly be different than a Walthers kit, so I decided to customize it a
little bit.
Adding texture is easy and highly effective
First, I added
a distressed wooden pattern on the plastic using coarse sandpaper and a razor
saw blade. I felt it would give a more organic texture to an industrial product.
The doors received the same treatment, but I also took care to scribe the lines
between each wooden components making the doors. It was to emphasize it’s an
assemblage and not a single piece moulding.
Adding nails improves the monolithic aspect of plastic parts
Second, the
wooden platform also got the same distressing treatment, and nails were also added
with the help of a metal point. I also used the razor saw to add deeper lines
between the planks on the side. Once again, a neat trick to reduce the look a plastic
monolithic part.
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Crude original windows replaced with custom ones |
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Texture is added to the new windows |
Another thing that bothered me were the windows and trims. They looked both minimalistic and unrealistic, so I decided to replace them with customized Tichy windows. The door also got new trims, and all these plastic components were distressed. I felt this little modification made the entire building look more authentic and gave it personality.
The concrete foundation is textured too
Finally, I
used a stiff brush and solvent cement to give a more realistic concrete look to
the concrete foundation. The trick is to dabble the melted surface with the
brush until it creates a bumpy surface. Don’t be afraid of overdoing it because
you can always soften the surface later on with more solvent or with a light
sanding. This technique works also well for imitating steel surfaces,
particularly the heavily rusted ones.
Finished model ready for painting
Painting
shouldn’t be too complicated, and I may elect, later on, to add paper shingles
on the plastic roof if weathering fails to capture a realistic look. All in
all, these little modifications took less than an afternoon and add a great
impact. It is a great way, while building brand new kits, to give them more
depth and realism without embarking on a full kitbashing adventure.
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