A few weeks ago, I started working on wiring for the small layout. I see it as a practice run before working on the more complicated Monk Subdivision. At face value, none of that work is required for the layout. I could have just installed a switch to select between DC power and DCC. But I wanted to try to create zone, control turnouts at distance and install a few fancy LEDs here and there with a neat track diagram.
My initial
thought was to print a diagram and sandwich it between a 1/8” MDF board and a
plexiglass sheet. I design the diagram with Adobe Illustrator using the real
metal lever switches dimensions to make sure everything fit the board. Once
printed, I built the panel base using a wood frame and a MDF panel. So far, so
good. Then, I cut the plexiglass sheet to dimension on the table saw. I wasn’t
that happy with the rugged borders, but some careful sanding took care of it.
It was just
a matter of drilling the holes on the plexi. Something that I would say easy…
until after maybe 15 holes, the sheet snapped and was ruined. It wasn’t the
first time I experienced this. I was about to cut a new sheet when I checked it
the MDF + Plexi assembly was thin enough to accept micro switches and it wasn’t!
All that work was for nothing.
I explored
my options. One was to simply paint or stick the diagram directly on the MDF
board and not use plexi. I may use a plastic laminated paper sheet so it would
survive abuse. Another idea was to print it on a self-adhesive vinyl sheet. I
kind of liked the idea but the cost was starting to be high.
Then, I
thought about using material such as the ones used by engravers and sign makers.
A neat Gravoply diagram with predrilled holes would be perfect. I contacted a
local engraver and he had many options ranging from $40 to $120. One made of
printed plastic, another with Gravoply and finally, a more professional one
make of engraved aluminium. The prices were alright for what I would get, but I
discovered Staples was offering sign printing on their online print shop. One
material, Dibond, was offered. It’s a sturdy 1/8” plastic core sandwiched
between two 0.04” aluminium sheets. Quite sturdy, durable and dimensionally
stable. For about $45, I could get two control panels printed on one 12” x 18”
sheet. Sure, the diagram would be printed, thus less durable than engraving,
but given this is just a test for a small layout, I felt it was alright.
| Cutting Dibond is similar to styrene |
After a few
days, I picked up my panels at my local store. I was really impressed by the
results. Quite sturdy indeed. Also, it can be cut to size with a cutter. After
a few passes through the aluminium sheet and in the plastic core, it’s just a
matter of score and snap. The material isn’t brittle, so the cuts are quite
clean. You only need to file down the aluminium sheet edges to remove the
burrs.
You get clean edges using the score and snap method
Drilling is
also easy. Just use a slow speed to not melt the material. I had good results
with various size of drill bits. Punching a pre-drill hole do help too. The plastic
core is relatively “soft” and hold screws very well.
Installing
the switches was easier than expected. I made sure to not scratch the printed
surface with the hex washers. The NCE Power Cab Panel was dropped and screwed
in place with small screws I blackened with bluing gun.
Half assembled panel with switches and LED holders
Honestly, I
really like the professional look and sturdiness of this panel. I have taken
care to protect the printed surface when I’m working on it, but it should be alright
under normal circumstances. Sure, I wouldn’t recommend printed Dibond for
intense use (club layout), but for my need it’s perfect. Keep in mind that at
the end of the day, it cost me less than purchasing a sheet of plexiglass at
the hardware store and my diagram was professionally printed on it. If you want
a DIY budget alternative, I think printed Dibond signs are much better than the
traditional approach. Plexi and/or charting tapes are, in many cases, a pure
waste of time, money and energy.
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